August 21 was the one-year anniversary of our arrival here on beautiful Ilha Terceira! It has not escaped Raymond and I just how fortunate we are to own our little slice of paradise, and how blessed we have been over the course of the past year. In that time, we have become fixtures in our little village; greeted when walking along the street and recognized everywhere from the swimming area, to the home improvement store, to our favorite bakery. We have made our little house into a comfortable, cozy home. We have transformed our yard from an overgrown jungle into a productive terraced garden and bright, open orchard. It has been a lot of work but absolutely a labor of love.
August 2023 vs. August 2024
Back Wall Project
It has been incredibly rewarding rebuilding the wall in the back yard. The orchard now has a defined border with the neighbor’s hillside and feels so much bigger! We even built in a few ‘bench stones’ for sitting. The wall is now all the way to the back near the chestnut trees and nearly complete. Next we plan to expand and improve upon last winter’s fava bean garden bed with the excess soil from the wall project (more to come on that).
Enjoying a cerveja at the Bar/Sociedade in Quatro Ribeiras
It has been said that Terceira is the “island of festivals.” Indeed, especially in the summer, one can go from festival to festival every week in some corner of the island. Raymond and I were happy to share in our village’s annual festival this past week in honor of the local parish, Saint Beatrice.
On one particular night there was a fado concert (traditional Portuguese folk music) in the church yard at the center of the village. It was fun so see so many locals out after dark, partaking of beer and bifanas (simple pork steak sandwiches). The music was fantastic!
Of course, the highlight of the festival was the bull running! We had attended the tourada in other villages, but it was amazing to see the crowds and beer/food vendors come to our sleepy village. To review, the bulls are on long ropes held by a cadre of brave men and let out in 15-minute intervals to run around in the center of the village. Brave bull ‘fighters’ then attract their attention with red banners and umbrellas, taunting the bulls as they run circles around them. The bulls are then returned to their carriers to run in another festival.
Bull #4 noticed us at the end of the first day of the tourada, just as the sun was setting and we were heading down the hill to our house. Such a beautiful golden hour!
Summer’s arrival has brought us a truly magnificent gift – sunny warm days and the cool sea just minutes away. We have been swimming almost daily at the swimming area just a five-minute walk away and appreciating the little changes from day to day…the cycles of tides, the still days and big surf days, the occasional troublesome jellyfish incursions…
The above photos are from the swimming area in the neighboring village of Biscoitos. Despite having visited many times through the year it has been amazing to see it come to life in the summer – more sea life, more shades of blue, more tourists. Even the novelty of walking across the plank bridge to further lava field swimming areas. We are proud to share that we FINALLY jumped from the high ledge into the “Belo Abismo” (beautiful abyss) area that consists of a channel 24-30 feet deep that cuts through the lava rocks and allows for some spectacular diving (below: Raymond and his mother there back in April).
Tree Trimming
In an effort to bring more sun to the orchard, we cut down a few trees growing along the banks of our stream. First down was a tall Australian blackwood tree that unfortunately fell on a banana tree, destroying its bunch of bananas. Next down was a nightshade tree (also Australian, also invasive) that is an especially troublesome tree here – their brittle branches break easily and, along with their leaves, are covered with irritating hairs that cause a rash (they also smell like gasoline…). Lastly we cut down a smaller blackwood tree that was shading the passionfruit vine and the terrace. With some additional cutting back of the wild cannas we had planted (on the left) and our neighbor cleaning up his hillside, the yard is feeling really open and airy!
Garden Progress
Our little watermelon patch is doing really well! We planted them around the stump of the “cherry” tree we cut down last year (we have since learned it was actually a plum tree). The butternut squash are taking shape on the uppermost terrace – it’s unbelievable how large the vines are! The collards have been cut back to provide more light for the beets and carrots in the lower terrace, while the black-eyed peas are vining like crazy on the middle terrace, and some yellow pear tomatoes are ripening on the upper terrace. Lastly, the fig tree has really taken off in the last month or two. It has lots of new leaves and a few side branches forming.
Front Wall
The stone wall that runs along our driveway and parking area was in need of a little help. A few of the rocks had become loose or fallen out allowing rain to flow through the wall towards the stream (above photos, left and center). So we filled the gaps with small rocks and, batch by batch, cemented the entire length of the wall. Afterward, we went over it again with a smooth stucco.
Back Wall
The property line with the neighbor’s hillside is not well defined along the orchard. There is evidence of an old stone wall but it was overgrown with vines and collapsed in places. It has been a lot of work clearing the vines, digging up mounds of invasive ginger, and consolidating rocks. We are looking forward to continuing the rebuilt wall section, completed last Fall, all the way to the back of the property.
Lukus’ grandfather suffered a severe stroke on June 2. Over the course of the following week, as his daughters gathered by his side, he continued to decline before passing away peacefully in his home on June 8 at age 95.
We departed on a flight to Lisbon early in the morning of June 10 (because it was a national holiday – Portugal Day – there were only limited flights off the island), and after a 5-hour layover in Lisbon we boarded a flight to New York – JFK. Arriving at 9 pm, we spent an uncomfortable night in the airport before departing for Detroit at 6 am. After 30 hours of travel we arrived back in Michigan – the first time in almost 10 months.
Grandpa’s funeral was held in central Michigan on June 12. The service was beautiful and we were both glad to be there to say our goodbyes. It was great to see so much of Lukus’ extended family, even if the circumstances were sorrowful.
In honor of Grandpa, we joined Lukus’ aunts for an evening of Bingo at Soaring Eagle Casino. It had been their weekly tradition to play Bingo with both Grandma and Grandpa, until Grandma’s passing 11 years ago, and with Grandpa in the years since. Sitting at their table and joined by their ‘lucky’ stuffed animals, the four of us pooled our money and had a great time winning round after round! It certainly helped to offset our air travel costs.
Summer’s Arrival
We stayed in Michigan for a total of 10 days, celebrating our wedding anniversary and both of our birthdays with Raymond’s family before returning to Ilha Terceira. It was a relief to be back here and experience our first summer solstice on the island. The orchard is doing great: the fig is bigger and has developed a few side branches, the new mango tree is doing well, the passion fruit vine is getting taller, and various bunches of bananas are still developing. In the garden, we have harvested the last of the fava beans and potatoes, and are patiently waiting on the leeks, carrots, and beets to mature.
Nature and Wildlife
L to R: the bathing area near our house (now officially open), waves crashing over the lava flow, Raymond in the stream at the edge of our property, a European eel in the stream (‘critically endangered’ and one of five we saw that day!), and the pair of Eurasian Collared Doves that we’ve been feeding near the house (they tolerate us being near them and even come flying when we call to them!).
Sanjoaninas Festival
We were excited to experience our first Sanjoaninas Festival on the island. It runs from June 21 – 30 in the capital, Angra do Heroísmo, and is the largest festival in the Azores. The festival corresponds to the birthday / feast day of St. John the Baptist and consists of sports tournaments, bull fights in the arena, street decor, parades, music stages, and food & drink kiosks. The city was a beautiful sight and it was amazing to see all the people out and about (the festival is quite the tourist draw).
We have been blessed with some of the first produce from our terrace garden! We had a healthy harvest of fava beans (we made a delicious soup) followed by spinach (which was starting to ‘bolt’). Next was the first our potato plants to be harvested, yielding two beautiful yellow potatoes. Of course, we are still regularly harvesting the collard leaves and they are delicious as ever.
Looking at the first photo (taken from atop our bathroom roof) one can see the four levels of the terraces: squash and a transplanted tree fern on the uppermost; tomatoes and favas on the next down; potatoes, leeks, and newly planted black-eyed peas on the next; and carrots, beets, and collards on the lowest. The last two photos are of the morning sun on the ‘high bridge’ over our stream and looking back at our house and the rock wall along our driveway.
New Arrivals
We planted a passionfruit vine at the base of the newly-trimmed cherry tree and are looking forward to it climbing and producing egg-shaped fruit. Behind that we created a small round garden bed and planted watermelon seeds (already sprouting well) and behind that we planted a mango tree! Our single hydrangea bush has really taken off after the trimming we gave it last summer – the flowers are just starting to open. And lastly, many thanks to Lukus’ mom and dad for the lovely wind chimes now hanging in the araçal tree above the herb garden (just mint and oregano thus far).
We had the pleasure of welcoming Raymond’s sister to Ilha Terceira for her first visit! She joined their mother, Michelle, at a nearby rental which provided a fun place to cook, hang out, and play cards!
Cat Colony, Around the house, and “Fairy Forest”
Wine Tasting & Tour, Sulfur Vents, Cave, Quatro Ribeiras
Guests #3 & #4
A week after the departure of Raymond’s mother and sister, Lukus’ mother and father arrived for their first visit! They stayed at the beautiful rental along the cliffside in Quatro Ribeiras, close enough to walk to our house and down to the bathing area.
Caves, Volcano Ridge, Praia da Vitória
Quatro Ribeiras and Festival of the Holy Spirit
Taking a walk above our village, the four of us climbed 700 vertical feet and were treated to some beautiful views of Quatro Ribeiras and Biscoitos in the distance. As it happens, this was the weekend of Pentecost and the Festival of the Holy Spirit (an Azorean tradition). It was a lovely experience sharing the celebration with the community and finally entering the Espírito Santo temple and seeing the silver crowns. Many thanks to our neighbor for informing us about the order of events: snacks and drinks, the distribution of meat to each household from donated beef steers, and finally a meat auction of the finer cuts of meat. We made a lovely roast (and later stew) with ours.
Sulfur Vents, Bull Running, Cascades, Ponta do Mistério
The four of us had a unique trip to the sulfur vents – unlike previous trips it was not a clear day, rather foggy and a little misty giving the steam rising from the vents an even more eerie feel. We also drove to the nearby village of Altares for their running of the bulls (well, more of a “bull taunting”). It was a lovely time with great beer and snacks! The cascades of Agualva were as beautiful as ever and we were excited to finally hike down to Ponta Negra at the edge of Quatro Ribeiras.
Raymond and I have been lucky to have our first house guest! Raymond’s mother, Michelle, arrived this past week and will stay with us for a week. It has been a joy showing her around the island and introducing her to our favorite people and places.
Serra do Cume and Praia da Vitória
The top three photos are from the ridge of the Serra do Cume volcano: looking to the south, the west (with Michelle and the the 5-mile wide caldera behind her), and east overlooking the city of Praia in the distance. Bottom: a panoramic photo of Praia with the Serra do Cume volcano in the background.
Around Quatro Ribeiras
We were delighted that the little pub just up the hill from us is now under new ownership and keeping more regular hours. Additionally, the owner is now serving dinner on Fridays (family-style) with beer or wine included! Raymond and I brought Michelle and joined three other locals for a lovely meal of stewed fish with potatoes, peppers, and onions. A splendid time was had by all!
The three of us also took a stroll down to the bathing area. We showed Michelle our favorite spots for jumping in and relaxed in the sun with our feet in the chilly water.
A Day in the Capital
We had a fun day exploring Angra do Heroísmo – from the cool yarn store to a homewares shop (we only had two wine glasses in our house – lol!) to the cathedral that Pope John Paul II famously visited back in 1991 (there is a statue of him nearby outside).
House and Garden
March 2023March 2023
Top row: overgrown stone wall and bbq, Lukus painting the bbq, final result with collards growing on terrace above
Middle row: our bedroom window before, after the wooden frame for shutters was removed and cemented over, freshly painted (along with the rest of the bedroom).
Bottom row: the terrace behind the house before, after about 3/4 was removed, and (finally) the terrace is gone! The plan is now to build a retaining wall that runs from the new garden terraces to the area behind the bathroom.
March 2023
Top row: the very overgrown hillside, the new stone wall extending from the boulder in photo #1 and Raymond placing patio blocks in the lower terrace, newly trimmed grass along the patio blocks – sprouts of carrots and beets on the right and newly planted black-eyed peas at the back.
Bottom photo: a view of the removed terrace from behind the bathroom. Once the retention wall is built on the left, we would like to cover the new space to use it as an open-air garden shed (and perhaps one day expand the bathroom).
We have been busy with projects in anticipation of guests at the end of April and May. While the additional daylight has been lovely for getting things done, the weather can still be hit-or-miss. The above photo was taken on an exceptionally clear and sunny day (about 64 degrees) which was perfect for house painting, but it is just as likely to be overcast, drizzly, and WINDY – making the high of 55 degrees feel quite cold.
House Painting – Outside
Be gone, mustard! It was such a relief to finally cover up the outdated mustard-colored window and door frames. Painting also gave us the opportunity to re-stucco the previously black-painted stone blocks at the corners of the house – there was some chipping in the blocks and gaps where they met the walls. We love the clean bright white with sky blue and our neighbors have commented as well!
House Painting – Inside
Focusing on the guest bedroom, we started by taking out what remained of the old frame for the wooden shutters and re-stuccoing. Painting the black window ledge a bright white really helped brighten the room! For good measure we painted the removable window screen white as well. We then painted the walls and caulked where they meet the wood trim. Guests, your room awaits!
Shower Project
After a year of putting up with a slow-draining, sometimes-leaking, poorly-opening, track-door-rusting plastic shower, we finally removed it and installed a new porcelain basin with beautiful glass doors. It was a bit of a gamble to be without a shower, but we ran the garden hose out the window and showered outside while it was a work in progress. Luckily, we were only without an (indoor) shower for 8 days!
The “Guest Shower”
Hiking Up the Stream
Raymond and I went for a hike up our stream, Ribeira Grande, one sunny afternoon. Our neighbor, Luis, informed us that there was a grove of bamboo upstream and we wanted to see it. So, passing under the big stone bridge and past the ‘guard’ goose who resides there, we made it to the rocky, natural part of the stream. The banks were steep and covered in vines and the occasional tree fern. The air was heavy with the intoxicating scent of blossoming Pittosporum trees. In some places we could see how the stream carved the rock along the sides, in others we could see evidence of landslides. We found the grove of bamboo, but had to turn back shortly thereafter as the water was too deep for our boots.
Bathroom Wall / Hillside Project
2023
As a part of the terrace removal / rebuild project, we’ve been slowly removing debris from behind the bathroom. We made some great strides this week to expose and patch the wall, as well as the stones comprising the stone oven. After pulling out roots and removing as much dirt as possible we cemented the exposed rocks. We plan to continue uncovering and cementing the oven wall in an effort to keep moisture in the kitchen at bay.
Today is the 1-year anniversary of closing on our little house – what a difference a year makes! It was a challenging first week a year ago, and then a prolonged process to get back here, but we are so happy with how far we’ve come.
20232024
We will post again soon regarding our house-painting project (still a work in progress) but you can see above that we have painted the window frames, door frames, and corner a bright sky blue.
Over the last week, Lukus built a stone and concrete planter adjacent to the retaining wall. We celebrated our house anniversary by planting a grape vine that we will eventually train on a trellis and shade the front ‘yard’ area. We are SOOOO looking forward to having fresh grapes in the future!
We returned to Terceira from our Portuguese studies on the mainland at the beginning of February. It was a delight to be back home and a relief to see that everything in and around the house was still in good order (save for two of our homemade concrete paver blocks that were washed away in the stream). Unfortunately, we both picked up colds the last week of classes, so our first week back was mostly taking it easy and drinking herbal tea.
Visitors!
(Above, L to R: Uncle Marty, Cousin Jason, Aunt Debbie, Raymond, and Aunt Connie in the capital, Angra do Heroísmo)
Raymond and I were pleased to have our first visitors this month! After exactly six months here it was our pleasure to share the island with some of our family. Here are some highlights:
Cascades of Agualva
Angra do Heroísmo and Monte Brasil
Sulfur Vents and Cave
North Coast Views
Terrace Project
The terraces are really taking shape. On the lower terrace, the collards are getting big – we regularly cook them in soups – and we just planted some spinach and lettuce on that level as well. Along the side of the concrete paver blocks we transplanted some sod to help control rain runoff. On the middle terrace, the fava beans we planted before leaving for Coimbra are healthy and happy (as is the clover planted as erosion control along the rocks). The upper terrace has an additional planting of fava and is still a work in progress.
Front Yard
Raymond and I finally got around to pressure-washing the front yard / driveway. With the amount of rain we get here, the concrete gets quite slippery with moss and mildew and we wanted to make it safe for our guests. On a whim today we rolled the HUGE millstone away from wall area with the pots (where it had been for years, presumably) and across the driveway to the rock wall. We like the way the millstone demarcates the parking area from the front yard and are already enjoying the added space around the picnic table.
Azores RLLZ 